Port vs Sherry: History, Origins and How They're Made

Port and Sherry are both iconic fortified wines, each with unique histories, production methods, and distinct characteristics. In this detailed guide, we'll explore the origins, production methods, historical significance, and key differences between these two beloved tipples.

1. Port

History & Origins

Port wine originates from the Douro Valley in northern Portugal, one of the world's oldest wine-producing regions, dating back more than 2,000 years. However, what we recognise today as Port began in the late 17th century, when British merchants, seeking alternatives to French wine during conflicts with France, turned their attention towards Portuguese wines. To preserve the wines for long voyages to England, they began fortifying them with brandy, creating the rich, sweet style now synonymous with Port.

In 1756, Port became the first wine to have its production region legally demarcated, reinforcing strict standards to ensure authenticity and quality.

How Port is Made: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Harvesting & Selection

• Harvesting:
  Grapes, primarily indigenous varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and Tinta Cão, are hand-picked during late summer or early autumn to ensure ideal sugar content.

• Selection:
  Grapes are meticulously sorted to remove any damaged or unripe fruit before crushing.

Step 2: Crushing & Fermentation

• Crushing & Extraction:
  Historically, grapes were foot-trodden in shallow granite tanks called ‘lagares’. Although some producers still follow this traditional method, many now utilise mechanical presses and temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.

• Fermentation:
  Fermentation begins naturally, and during this short, vigorous process, sugars in grapes convert into alcohol. However, fermentation is intentionally halted early—typically after just two or three days—to preserve the grape’s natural sweetness.

Step 3: Fortification

• Addition of Spirit:
  Neutral grape spirit (‘aguardente’) is added, halting fermentation by killing yeast. This preserves residual sugars, resulting in Port’s characteristic sweetness, and raises the alcohol content to around 19-22%.

Step 4: Ageing & Blending

• Ageing in barrels:
  Depending on the type, Port can age in wooden barrels or stainless-steel tanks. Barrels allow for gradual oxidation, imparting complex, nutty, and dried fruit characteristics, whereas stainless steel tanks help retain fresher, fruitier flavours.

• Blending:
  Blending is crucial in Port production. A master blender carefully combines wines from different grape varieties, vineyards, and vintages to ensure consistent style and quality year after year.

Step 5: Bottling

• Bottle-Ageing:
  Some Port styles, notably Vintage Port, continue ageing in the bottle, further developing complexity and depth over many decades.

2. Sherry

History & Origins

Sherry, known as Jerez in Spanish, originates from the region around Jerez de la Frontera, in Andalucía, Southern Spain. Wine-making traditions here date back over 3,000 years, shaped by Phoenician, Roman, Moorish, and Spanish influences. The distinctive style of fortified wine recognised today as Sherry emerged around the 16th century, also influenced heavily by British trade.

Sherry gained international prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries, particularly popularised by British importers who adapted the local ‘Jerez’ into the anglicised ‘Sherry.’

How Sherry is Made: Step-by-Step

Step 1: Harvesting & Grape Varieties

• Harvesting:
  Grapes are carefully harvested, primarily using Palomino, Pedro Ximénez (PX), and Moscatel varieties. Palomino is used predominantly for dry styles, whereas PX and Moscatel produce sweeter variants.

• Drying (Sweet Sherries):
  For sweeter Sherries, grapes (PX and Moscatel) are often sun-dried to concentrate sugars, enhancing sweetness and richness.

Step 2: Fermentation & Classification

• Fermentation:
  Grapes destined for Sherry undergo full fermentation, leaving dry base wines. This fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel or traditional wooden vats.

• Initial Classification:
  Post-fermentation, base wines are tasted and classified. Wines displaying elegance and finesse are destined to become ‘Fino’ or ‘Manzanilla,’ while heavier, fuller-bodied wines are classified for ageing as ‘Oloroso.’

Step 3: Fortification & Flor Formation

• Fortification:
  Wines intended to become lighter Sherry (Fino or Manzanilla) are fortified to around 15%, allowing a unique yeast layer, called ‘flor,’ to develop on the wine’s surface. Flor protects wine from oxidation, imparting characteristic freshness and complexity.

• Flor Development:
  Flor is a naturally occurring yeast layer requiring specific conditions (humidity, temperature, and alcohol content) to thrive. It contributes delicate notes of almonds, bread dough, and subtle minerality to the wine.

• Oloroso Styles:
  Wines fortified above 17% alcohol do not support flor growth. Without flor, the wines oxidise naturally, gaining deeper, nuttier, more robust flavours.

Step 4: Ageing & the Solera System

• The Solera System:
  Sherry employs a unique ageing and blending process called the Solera system, comprising multiple layers (or ‘criaderas’) of barrels stacked vertically. Young wine enters the system at the top, and progressively older wines move downward.

• Blending & Complexity:
  A small fraction of older wine is drawn from the bottom layer (the ‘solera’) periodically for bottling. Younger wines from upper layers replenish these lower barrels, continually blending old with new. This method maintains consistent style, quality, and character over decades, producing complex, multi-dimensional wines.

Step 5: Bottling & Finishing

• Finishing:
  Before bottling, sweeter Sherries like Cream or Medium styles are blended with sweeter wines (often PX or Moscatel) to achieve desired sweetness levels.

Key Differences between Port & Sherry:

Conclusion: A Legacy of Flavour

Both Port and Sherry are iconic fortified wines whose distinct character is shaped by their unique histories, climate, production methods, and terroirs. While Port offers rich sweetness and depth influenced by its Portuguese heritage, Sherry spans a broader spectrum, from crisp and dry to decadently sweet, showcasing centuries of Spanish tradition.

Whether savouring the intensity of Port or appreciating the layered complexity of Sherry, understanding their backgrounds enhances every sip—making these wines even more enjoyable and significant.

Cheers!